James Baquet

    jamesbaquet@gmail.com

    GOING down the trail from Roushen Hall, I quickly reached my next destination: Shangchan (Upper Zen) Hall.

    The public area of the temple consists of just one main hall and a courtyard behind it. But I was in for a remarkable treat.

    A memorial ceremony was being conducted on behalf of a laywoman. She sat to the side, and was occasionally called into the chanting by six monks in front of the main altar. I watched for nearly two hours, with one break to visit the courtyard.

    Meanwhile, a parade of tourists passed through the hall, chatting loudly, talking on their phones, even smoking … But as I sat quietly the whole time, I won the friendship of the old monk who tended the hall. He brought me a magazine about the great monk Ren De, who passed away in 2001.

    After the ceremony, I asked permission to take a few photos of the beautiful statuary in the hall. Not only was I permitted, but I was scolded for not shooting some of the “highlights,” like a lantern dating back to the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) — “FOUR HUNDRED YEARS!” the old monk shouted.

    The rear courtyard held a spring (called Golden Sands) which was rigged to send forth its water through a vase held by a statue of Guanyin. There were also some nice bas reliefs, as well as a view of the mountains beyond.

    Reluctantly leaving Shang-chan Hall and the kind and pious monks, I continued down past several small temples until I reached the main road where my hotel was located. Turning away from it, I poked into a few other temples, large and small, before retiring.