Tan Yifan

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    WHEN one thinks about wine, it is usually about the excitement one feels as the sweet, aromatic, and acidic taste touches one’s tongue. However, what a smart and experienced tongue can tell about wine is far beyond what most people would imagine. It can decipher almost every subtle detail hiding in the drink, including the type and terrior of the grape, the length of fermentation, the material of the barrel, the character of the producer and even more. Thus, an expert tongue usually instructs wine buyers to remember the brands it prefers to avoid wasting money and any unpleasant drinking experience.

    Captious buyers tend to stick to the wines labeled from the old world, for example, those produced with French AOC or VDQS marks. But in fact, the tongue is less conservative than the mind. It will get bored if all it tastes is always the same.

    “Unlike wines from the old world, winemaking in the new world is more exciting,” said French winemaker Arnaud Hereu from Chilean Odfjell winery at a recent wine tasting event hosted by Sourceland Wines Shenzhen.

    Just as Hereu stated, Chilean wine is distinct, with clear, straight tastes and strong, fruity aromas.

    With a climate similar to the midway between that of California and France, common grapes grown in Chile are Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlots and Carmeneres. But Carignans remain the favorite of Hereu, not only because “it represents the character of traditional Chilean wine,” but because it is a special grape that can “clean out” unnecessary elements during the process of fermentation.

    “As a relatively new winemaker, I want to produce wine that is both ready-to-drink and can be preserved for a few years,” Hereu said. “Because of the high acidity of Carignans, it can replace grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignons but still provide strong tannin.”

    Also, Carignans contain a fruit and flower aroma that the winemaker likes.

    Although Hereu may not speak for all winemakers in Chile, his personal preferences reflect the demands and tendencies of both the market and his peers in the South American country. They spend more time making short-term fermenting wines, which are stored only around two years before shipping to markets such as China.

    The secret of making high-quality wine with less time for awakening, as Hereu said, is the introduction of stainless steel containers.

    “I don’t want the oak to add extra flavor into the liquid,” said Hereu. “The longer the wine ferments, more elements from the oak will seep into the wine.”

    The best way to choose a wine that delights your tongue is to try as many as you can. Most wines produced in Chile are less expensive than those from the old world, but to avoid wasting money, you need to know that there are four levels of Chilean wine.

    The basic level is Varietal, which only includes the types of grapes used on the wine label. The second level is labeled as Reserva, which can be preserved for a longer time. The third is Gran Reserva, which indicates a high quality. The highest-quality wines are called Reserva de Familia.

    In addition, Hereu said that Chilean wines produced in 2002 are the worst ever in history.

    There was a heavy downpour during harvest time that year, so most of the grapes were ruined. In contrast, so far the best vintage of all is this year. So if you find Chilean wine bottled in 2014, just buy it without hesitation.