James Baquet

THE night I arrived in Jinan, Shandong I had a nice stroll around the Muslim quarter, where I found an excellent Indian/Pakistani restaurant.

The next morning, I took a taxi to the north gate of Qianfo Mountain (Thousand-Buddha Mountain), where one temple on my list is located.

The driver told me I would have to climb the mountain. I learned later that there is a “ropeway,” but the chairs were the old T-bar style like on a ski lift. Not being built for such a conveyance, I honestly don’t think I would have taken it had I known about it.

Anyway, the climb was pleasant enough. Along the way were huge statues of Buddhism’s popular “18 Arhats,” allegedly 18 enlightened disciples of the Buddha. Lots of people were having their pictures taken with (and on) these “saints.”

Further up there were some modern relief carvings, an homage to the ones up above. Then I passed a couple of caves (Five yuan admission here, another five there).

The temple itself, named Xingguo Chan Temple (“Encouraging the Country Zen Temple”) is located about halfway up the hillside. There are several halls with some fine statues; the real attraction though is the small grottoes with statues carved into the native rock.

I continued toiling my way up to the summit for a hazy but wide view of Jinan. On the way down I passed plenty of facilities for tourists (shops and restaurants), and some truly colossal statues of the popular “Laughing Buddha” and Guanyin, Bodhisattva of Compassion.

This ancient site was a pleasant end to my trip to Shandong.