James Baquet jamesbaquet@gmail.com REACHING Xuefeng Chongsheng Temple, in a mountainous area outside Fuzhou, was one of the greatest challenges on my pilgrimage so far. I had to take a city bus to the outskirts of town; then flag down an unmarked minibus as it passed by, tell the driver what I wanted, and finally get in for a two-hour ride on a twisty mountain road. But it sure was worth it. The “Xuefeng” in the temple’s name means “snowy peak,” and it’s clear that this temple spends the winter months locked in white. As for “Chongsheng,” it’s a reference to the “holy man” who founded the temple, Xuefeng Yicun (822-908), whose magnificent barrel-shaped stupa is in a back corner of the main temple grounds. Aside from its spectacular setting, the temple compound itself is pleasant enough. More interesting were the temple’s fields on the surrounding terrace, and some of the outlying halls and hermits’ huts. The main compound was spacious. Beyond the huge free-release pond in front, it was quite a long walk between the compound’s halls. Passing out to the left, I had a pleasant stroll in the aforementioned fields, ending at a separate compound with stacked firewood and a few smaller halls. Passing back through the main grounds and out the front gate, I crossed the road, where a new-looking pond held a statue of Guanyin, Bodhisattva of Compassion, in the center. Beyond this was a new hall called Kumu An, or “Dead Tree Hermitage.” |