THE storied Michelin food guide launched its first edition on the Chinese mainland yesterday, awarding stars to elegant luxury establishments as well as to a humble haunt serving up Cantonese staples.

    The inaugural edition covers the commercial hub of Shanghai and gives stars to 26 restaurants, including the world’s least expensive two-star establishment, Canton 8, a popular lunchtime spot catering to local families.

    “Canton 8 is a reflection of what can be found in Shanghai — masterful, delicious and very good quality cooking,” said Michael Ellis, international director of the Michelin guides.

    The publication of the inaugural Chinese mainland edition follows its first guide to Singapore in July, when Michelin inspectors also gave out stars to the city-state’s famous street food stalls.

    The guides, first published in France more than a century ago to promote automobile travel, now cover 28 countries and spotlight diverse cuisines including Brazilian, Burmese, Cajun, Peruvian, and Tibetan.

    But they are not without their critics, who question whether the quality of street fare in places like Hong Kong and Singapore can compare to the French haute cuisine on which its reputation was made.

    “We have to adapt to the country,” Claire Dorland-Clauzel, executive vice president at Michelin, told AFP.

    “Our role is to promote quality food everywhere, not (only) French food.”(SD-Agencies)