Matthew Jellick

I’m a firm believer in the idea that food reflects culture, and beyond that, it’s also a constant reminder of home whenever I’m far from the shores of Southern California. For me, the dishes of remembrance are Mexican, including those backyard barbecues of Carne Asada, chili ground in a Molcajete, and of course, my Grandma’s tortillas. Living abroad since 2009, I have had to improvise when and where I could enjoy Mexican food, yet the world over, I’ve somehow been able to manage quite effectively.

Since taking up residence in my adoptive city of Shenzhen, I’ve navigated the Mexican food scene here, and along the way, met some incredible people who run local restaurants and who have made this by far the best international region I have lived in with regards to options of Enchiladas, Enmoladas and Tortas.

What perhaps impresses me even more than the restaurants themselves is an actual Tortilleria, run by Juan, who is originally from La Paz, Mexico. Using the traditional technique of Nixtamalization, whereby the corn itself is prepared into Maize before being rolled, Tortilleria Don Juan is run out of a small shop in Wanxia Village. With an extensive network, Juan is able to provide these delicious tortillas to Mexican restaurants across China, and in fact, I have enjoyed them as far away as Shanghai (at the fantastic Maya Restaurant). True to the original form and process developed in Mesoamerica thousands of years ago, Don Juan’s patience and discipline is rewarded in the softness of the tortilla the subtleness of flavors which transport me far from the chaos of South China to the tranquility of Baja California Sur.

Two excellent local Mexican restaurants I frequent are Tequila Coyotes in Shekou and Hola in Futian, both run by Mexican chefs who know their way around a cocina.

Run by Neto Treviño who is from the Mexican state of Colima, Tequila Coyotes seems to be the nexus of activity when it comes to celebrations, and this year alone I have personally recognized both Día de los Muertos as well as Día de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe there with my friends Jana and Raul.

Across town near CoCo Park is the intimate Hola Mexican Restaurant, operated by Chetos who is also from Colima. The entrée of choice there is the Pastor Torta, with its perfectly marinated meat on a lightly toasted bun, accompanied by crema, avocados and lime. Chetos can oftentimes be found in the kitchen and always greets with a warm smile and hello, welcoming his customers. The atmosphere flavors the food like a squeeze of lime does to Guacamole.