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在线翻译:
szdaily -> Lifestyle -> 
How to treat and prevent under-eye wrinkles
    2021-05-28  08:53    Shenzhen Daily

THERE are a lot of things that are really fun about getting older: no bedtime, being able to eat ice cream whenever you want, spicy margaritas. But on the other side of this naughty and nice list — right below “paying bills” and “going to work” — you’ll find under-eye wrinkles.

“The skin around the eye is one of the thinnest areas of skin in the body and is very fragile,” says board-certified dermatologist Nava Greenfield from Brooklyn, NYC, the U.S. Over time, “the collagen in the dermis of the skin under the eyes breaks down and loses its volume and elasticity. This occurs because of age, sun exposure, genetic factors, and environmental damage.” She adds that people with lighter skin tones are more susceptible to under-eye wrinkles because people with darker skin tones have a greater amount of pigment, which naturally protects against the sun and “will prevent an acceleration of collagen breakdown.”

Staring at a computer screen and squinting also can do its harm. “Making wrinkles and holding them causes the matrix of collagen and elastin to bend,” says dermatologist Jame Heskett. “The more you bend something over time, the more it has a tendency to stay in that state.” For this reason, sleeping on your side or stomach — which smooshes your face against your pillow — can also contribute to fine lines beneath your eyes.

Under-eye wrinkles are most common among people with poor circulation (which tends to manifest as dark circles), very dry skin, and allergies. “Allergies cause inflammation. Inflammation increases swelling and decreases blood flow, leading to increased rate of damage to collagen and elastin,” says Heskett. “Additionally, itching or scratching the eye area can cause repeated wear and tear on the skin.”

While under-eye wrinkles are pretty much an inevitable part of the aging process, there are a few things you can do to stave them off:

1. Wear the right skin-care products at night.

“Use a moisturizer and serum that’s specifically designed for the eyelids, which need a different composition of nutrients and moisture than other skin on the face and body,” says Greenfield. Additionally, “a nighttime retinol is important for the prevention of fine lines and wrinkles and for collagen build-up.”

2. Always put on SPF.

Wearing a zinc-based sunscreen and sunglasses every day can also help, as can using an antioxidant-based cream that will help protect from the free radical damage that causes signs of aging.

3. Shift your sleep habits.

In addition to integrating particular products into your routine, certain lifestyle changes can help keep under-eye wrinkles at bay. Training yourself to sleep on your back (ideally with a silk pillowcase) and taking a timeout from your laptop really do make a difference.

4. Give dry brushing a whirl.

Dr. Heskett adds that dry brushing your face along the lymphatic channels can increase the circulation and, in turn, help prevent wrinkles on your entire visage—not just under your eyes.

Once fine lines begin to work their way onto your face, there are a few things you can try to help make things smoother:

1. Invest in hyaluronic acid and antioxidants: Treating your fine lines starts with finding the right ingredients. “Hyaluronic acid plumps up the space between the collagen and elastin, giving them support so they promote smoother skin,” says Heskett. Other skin-smoothing stars include gentle antioxidants like caviar extract and resveratrol, which “counteract the collagen-damaging oxidation,” she says. Dr. Greenfield is also a fan of retinol moisturizers for treating wrinkles.

2. Stay away from fragrance in eye creams: “Avoid anything with a fragrance because lower eyelid skin can be very sensitive and react to allergens more commonly than skin elsewhere on the face or body,” Dr. Greenfield says.

3. Injectables and lasers can help to nix fine lines: “Micro amounts of Botox can be used under the eyes to smooth out wrinkles before they become permanently etched into the skin,” says Dr. Greenfied.

“Lasers, such as Fraxel, can be used to build up collagen and smooth out the appearance of wrinkles. And hyaluronic acid fillers, such as Juvéderm or Belotero, can also help smooth out the appearance of wrinkles.”

4. Derm-office facials can stimulate collagen: Dr. Heskett points to treatments like microneedling with platelet-rich plasma (PRP) or radiofrequency to help remodel the collagen and elastin, while carboxytherapy can increase blood flow and restore collagen and elastin. (SD-Agencies)

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