AT dawn, the bustling snack streets of Tianshui, a city in Northwest China’s Gansu Province, were already teeming with activity, with visitors eager to taste the local specialty, malatang — a mix of food items boiled in hot, spicy broth.

Dong Liangyan, 29, from Northeast China’s Heilongjiang Province, said she has come all the way traveling over 2,000 kilometers to savor this delicacy that has intrigued her for quite some time. She said the aromatic chili oil and the velvety texture of hand-made noodles made her culinary quest all the more rewarding.

This simple spicy delicacy has recently thrust this quaint city into the online spotlight, enchanting tourists with its rich history spanning over 8,000 years. As a popular snack across China, malatang offers a diverse range of flavors, depending on the region. In Tianshui, the hot and fiery chili oil blankets an array of ingredients, complemented by a serving of hand-made noodles, creating a distinctive and delightful culinary experience.

Tianshui’s malatang is made with local specialty dressing — Maiji peppercorns and Gangu chili peppers. Diners first select fresh food items, strung on skewers and hand them over to the cook. The chosen ingredients are boiled in the broth and then scooped into a bowl, with or without the original soup, depending on the diners’ preferences. With two spoonfuls of oil and pepper drizzled on top, the bowls fairly burst with flavor.

“No one can resist the temptation of this bowl of delicacy,” said 48-year-old Ha Haiying who has owned a malatang restaurant in Tianshui for over two decades. While handling the long queues of customers outside her shop, Ha explained how malatang serves as a prime example of food’s evolving role as a catalyst for cultural and tourism consumption.

The local government not only provides special bus commute but also prepares agricultural specialties, boutique cultural tourism routes, and exquisite local products, allowing tourists to experience the charm of local culture while savoring the delicacies.

In recent years, the choice of destinations by tourists has become increasingly diverse, with many opting to travel for culinary experiences and to discover new flavors as part of their holiday adventures. According to a 2023 report on gastronomic tourism released by the China Tourism Academy, the role of gastronomy in shaping tourism destinations and development strategies is gaining prominence. It has emerged as a crucial factor in unveiling the cultural landscape of cities to a broader audience.

Data confirms the popularity of “foodie tours.” As of March 13, discussions about “Tianshui malatang” have dominated the trending topics on major social media platforms, with over 1.05 billion views on short video platforms. Searches for “Tianshui malatang” on the Chinese lifestyle-sharing platform Xiaohongshu have resulted in over 30,000 notes.

The “foodie tour” also boosts the sales of various local agricultural products. According to He Zhibin, general manager of a chili production and processing enterprise in Gangu, chili products have gained significant popularity online, with many social media influencers and e-commerce platforms seeking collaborations.

Tianshui’s attractions include the Maijishan Grottoes, a world cultural heritage site, and the temple of Fuxi — a legendary Chinese ancestor. “Eating is not the only motive for travel,” said Ju Yuexuan, a tourist from Northeast China’s Liaoning Province. “I also want to enjoy the unique scenery in the northwest.”

(Xinhua, Global Times, China Daily)