IT was not an obvious place to put a vineyard. The ground was barren and stony. In winter, temperatures could drop below freezing and the wind blew cold and hard.

In October 2000, however, Nicolas Billot-Grima decided to build a winery, far from his native Bordeaux, within sight of the Great Wall of China, 69 kilometers northwest of Beijing.

The big moon overhead and the huge stones everywhere in the barren Gobi Desert left a lasting impression on Billot-Grima, who decided to call his winery at the eastern foot of Helan Mountain “Stone and Moon.”

Billot-Grima, the sixth generation of a winemaking family from Bordeaux, France, was attracted to Ningxia’s favorable terroir and chose to “make world-class wine” there after exploring many famous wine-producing regions around the world.

“I will be 60 years old next year, and I’ve spent more than half of my life in China,” he said.

In 1987, Billot-Grima, then 22, traveled to China on business. He has since helped build several wineries across the country, including in Shandong, Xinjiang and Yunnan.

The Frenchman was instrumental in introducing Marselan, an important grape variety, to China. Marselan was quite new at the time, even in France, he said. “It tastes a little spicy, so I thought maybe it’s suitable for China.”

The first harvest of wine made from Marselan was well received in the industry. China has become the world’s second-largest producer of Marselan, which is widely grown in Ningxia.

“Marselan found the ideal growing environment in China, “ said Baudouin Havaux, chairman of the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, a recognized wine competition.

With a dry climate and abundant sunshine, the eastern foot of Helan Mountain is a “golden zone” for grape growing and high-end wine production. Billot-Grima first visited this location in 2012 to compete in a contest. Five years later, he relocated to Ningxia and established Stone and Moon Winery.

To make fine wines, he imported the best equipment and assembled an international team of winemakers from France, Chile and Argentina. Their first wine won an international award.

“Wine is not a standardized product, so we have to adapt ourselves to new changes every year,” said Billot-Grima. His team works with professionals around the world to find solutions quickly.

In June this year, wines from the eastern foot of Helan Mountain, representing China, was showcased for the first time at the Bordeaux Wine Festival 2024. When Billot-Grima served wine to customers, they “couldn’t believe it’s made in China,” he said.

China is expected to join the International Organization of Vine and Wine this year, which Billot-Grima believes is significant.

Years of efforts by all the wineries in China have helped put the country on the world’s fine wine map.

In the vineyard, Billot-Grima and his team are busy preparing for the upcoming harvest.

“Bordeaux is known for its wine, and so it can be for Ningxia. I hope in the near future Ningxia’s wine will be recognized among the best in the world,” he said. (Xinhua)