Sterling Platt

SterlingPlatt@qq.com

SHENZHEN is a city obsessed with the future. It’s a glittering metropolis of glass-and-steel titans, a place where tomorrow’s technology is being built today. As an expat, it’s easy to get swept up in this relentless forward momentum.

That’s why discovering Nantou Ancient Town feels like stepping through a portal. Here, nestled in the heart of the Nanshan District, is a glimpse into the city’s origin story, a place with a history stretching back nearly 1,700 years.

For centuries, Nantou was a walled city and the administrative and military heart of the region. Today, this history isn’t confined to a stuffy museum — it’s alive. The ancient city walls and gates stand proudly amid a labyrinth of narrow alleyways where traditional buildings now house trendy boutiques, art galleries, and innovative restaurants. It’s a captivating fusion of old and new, a place where you can feel the layers of history under your feet.

It was this intoxicating blend that led me to a restaurant called Sip Up. Tucked away in a charming corner, its entrance is a beautifully designed grotto of curved concrete and lush tropical plants, a clear sign that creativity lies within.

Inside, the vibe is warm and intimate. Exposed brick walls and a magnificent, floor-to-ceiling wine collection create a space that feels both rustic and sophisticated. It’s a long, narrow haven that invites you to settle in and stay awhile, a perfect refuge from the bustle outside.

The menu is where the restaurant’s personality truly shines. We started with a dish poetically named the Hemingway Portobello Mushroom. The menu boldly claims that it is “another divine way to eat mushrooms” that “even Hemingway would fall in love with.” The dish that arrived lived up to the hype.

A massive, juicy portobello mushroom was stuffed with a savory mix of Parma ham and other mushrooms, then blanketed in melted mozzarella and a truly amazing black garlic sauce. Topped with a nest of crispy cordyceps flowers, it was a masterpiece of earthy, savory, and umami flavors that truly felt worthy of the great Hemingway.

Next was the Roasted Pepper Baby Squid. The menu promised squid grilled on a teppanyaki plate with a special roasted pepper sauce, mushrooms, and amaranth stems, noting that the squid roe would “burst in your mouth.” It was a thrilling description, and the dish delivered. Tender, smoky squid were tossed in a vibrant, tangy sauce, with the slightly tart, crunchy amaranth stems providing a fantastic textural contrast. It was a bold, inventive plate that was a delight to eat.

To balance the richness, we also ordered a vibrant grilled chicken salad. Tender pieces of grilled chicken were tossed with crisp lettuce, sweet chunks of squash, cherry tomatoes, and kidney beans. It was a substantial and satisfying salad that felt both healthy and indulgent.

A visit to Nantou Ancient Town is a journey through time. It’s a place that shatters the myth of Shenzhen as a “cultural desert” and reveals a city with deep, fascinating roots. Finding a restaurant like Sip Up, which mirrors the town’s own spirit of creative fusion, makes the experience complete. It’s a perfect illustration of what makes being an expat in this city so rewarding — the constant discovery of places where history isn’t just preserved, it’s deliciously reimagined.